Connecting it to the system

In most applications a high impedance source (instrument, unbalanced line or similar) will plug into the Normal Input. If the signal needs monitoring, eg. an onstage amplifier, then connect a lead from the Loop Out on the DI PLUS to the amplifier.
Pushing the Pad switch IN will reduce the input level by -20dB if required. Active pickups on a bass guitar may need this, but passive pickups won't. Don't switch the Pad in unless it really is necessary (clipping at the console mic-preamp, for example) otherwise that lost 20dB of gain will have to be made up at the console, which will worsen the signal to noise ratio of your signal.

Amplifier direct connection

The normal setup will be fine for most applications, like bass guitars, keyboards, unbalanced consumer tape decks, CD players, video player audio outputs, etc. But some instruments, typically electric guitar, the sound of the instrument/amplifier combination is required.

In this case, connect a lead from the External (or Aux) speaker output on the rear of the amplifier to the Speaker Level Input (-40dB) on the DI-PLUS. This represents a level drop of 100:1, which should be just fine for most amplifiers.
Important Note # 1: Be sure not to connect a lead from the Loop Out of the DI-PLUS back to the amplifier input if you are using the DI-PLUS in this manner! Do it once and the repair bill will ensure you never do it again!

However, if the signal is still too hot for the console's pre-amp, then switch the Pad switch IN as well to reduce the input by a further -20dB. Just bear in mind the note regarding the Pad switch in the preceding section.

Important Note # 2: Be sure to always use the External or Aux speaker output on the amplifier. Never disconnect the speakers on a valve/tube amplifier.

Connecting to the console

Run a balanced microphone lead from the 3 pin XLR connector on the rear of the DI-PLUS to an input channel of the mixing console.

In larger applications this mic lead will usually connect to an input of the Stage Box attached to the multicore snake, which will then run down to the console inputs out in the audience area.

If necessary, pushing the Audio Ground Lift switch IN will isolate Pin 1 to stop Ground Loops.

Battery Changing

The simple 'clamshell' action of the DI-PLUS battery compartment makes battery changing extremely easy, even on the darkest stages.

1. Loosen the knurled captive screw on the rear panel
2. Push the lid upwards
3. Pull the used battery out and replace by snapping it into the holder.
4. Close the lid and tighten the screw

That's it!. No fragile battery clip leads to break, no tools required, no screws to lose. Tip: If you have Phantom Power switched on, either globally or on the console channel you're using, the DI-PLUS will automatically switch over to it, and there will be no need to use a battery